THE
SPICES OF FIJI
From
the time humans first arrived in Fiji, spice plants along with salt
must certainly have been used to enhance the taste and flavour of the
food they ate. Early Fijians, no doubt, used plants like chilli and
ginger. Much later, as Fiji's population grew to include Indians, Chinese
and Europeans, a vast new variety of spices became part of Fiji's cuisine.
Some
spice plants already existed in Fiji such as species of nutmeg, pepper
and ginger (turmeric). Today, a comprehensive assortment of commercial
varieties are all growing well in Fiji's ideal climate. It is not unusual
to see cinnamon and clove trees growing ornamentally in compounds throughout
Fiji's larger islands.
Growing
spices commercially is a relatively new emerging industry in Fiji. However,
now, many villages in Taveuni, Kadavu, Lomaiviti, etc especially grow
vanilla to supply Fiji's chief plantation and exporter - located at
Wainadoi, which is 22km west of Suva. This plantation grows vanilla,
pepper, nutmegs, cinnamon, cardamoms, cloves, turmeric and ginger commercially.
The
Wainadoi plantation is open to visitors and is worth the trip to see
the spices that we use daily actually growing. With Fiji's ideal climate,
the potential to become a major producer of these amazing plant products
is now being realised.
This
stamp issue reflects just a few of the more important spices that we
all take for granted in our kitchens and markets. Today we move away
from using synthetic products as demand and interest increases for authentic
organically grown spices.
Vanilla:
Vanilla fragrans, Orchidaceae.
Native to Mexico, vanilla is now cultivated in Madagascar, Reunion,
Indonesia, Uganda and Tonga, as well as Fiji. Tahiti cultivates a different
species. Flowers come in clusters, and as each flower blooms, it must
be pollinated that morning or it will fall in disuse. Pollination in
all cases is done very swiftly by hand over four months of the year,
usually September through December and the vanilla "beans"
ripen some nine months later. Sun-curing and "sweating", wrapped
in blankets, bring out the bouquet and flavour, a process of several
months. Almost all the crop is sold in Fiji's own retail packets, in
"added-value" form to discriminating buyers. The very best
beans are saved for making organic vanilla liquid extract that has achieved
a world reputation. Consumers are being converted away from using the
synthetic chemical extract that is made from coal-tar products. As a
member of the orchid family, vanilla was a natural for Fiji, which already
has some 23 species of wild orchids in its native flora.
Nutmeg:
Myristica fragrans, Myristicaceae
Nutmeg is a natural for Fiji because there are already growing in the
bush three species closely related to the commercial species. It thrives
in our insular maritime climate where there is no pronounced dry season.
Other areas of the world that specialise in nutmegs are Grenada and
Indonesia. This is a dioecious tree, with male and female trees separate,
and a few hermaphrodites. Slow growing, the seedlings take six years
to reveal their gender. Most of the males are cut out, because only
one male tree is needed for ten females. Trees will grow to 20 metres
but the drupes are easy to harvest, falling when ripe, with the husk
(pericarp) splitting open by itself. The nut (testa) is sun dried before
tapping lightly to open out the kernel that is the main product. Around
the shell of the nut is a brilliant red, fleshy aril, a separate but
similar tasting spice called mace. Sun-dried, the aril will turn yellowish
or orange-coloured. The flowers are fragrant and they secrete a sweet
nectar. Pollination is effected naturally, by insects.
Pepper:
Piper nigrum, Piperaceae.
True pepper is Piper nigrum ("Black pepper") a climbing vine
not to be confused with cayenne, chilli, red, green or sweet peppers
belonging to the Capsicum genus. Christopher Columbus got confused reaching
the West Indies, thinking he had reached India, and found real pepper.
Our pepper is real pepper of the pepper family, related to the pepper
leaf that is chewed with the betel nut, Piper betle, and to kava, Piper
methysticum, the beverage plant of the South Sea islands. It is native
to the Western Ghats in India, but is now widely cultivated in the wet
rain-forest tropics of India, Indonesia, Brasil, as well as Hainan,
China. Curiously, in India, only black pepper is used, while white pepper
is virtually unknown. Chinese people use only white pepper, and never
the black. It is the same plant. Black pepper is sun-cured from clusters
of the mature green berries. White pepper comes from the very ripe berries
after the soft red or yellow skin has been rubbed off.
The pepper vine is grown supported by the trunks of tree fern that also
supply food to the clinging clasper roots. Clusters of peppercorns are
harvested after three years from planting the cuttings. Pollination
is by wind and rain. The only labour is in pruning back vegetative shoots
that yield no fruit, and in the harvest. It is an easy crop to grow
and Fiji has built a reputation for world-class pepper, certified organic,
with its own exquisite bouquet.
Cinnamon:
Cinnamomum verum, Lauraceae.
Fiji has a scattering of native cinnamons that are used by villagers
to perfume the fragrant coconut oil used for their body massage. Their
bark is similar to the commercial Cinnamomum verun but not as sweet,
and cannot be sold as food. Wainadoi has forests of the naturalised
true cinnamon and supplies bakeries and health-food stores overseas
and in Fiji. The small trees are chopped out every two or three years,
and bark cleaned and removed from the branches. The branches grow back
naturally without any prompting. Fiji originated the idea of reducing
the bark to fine powder and shipping fresh from the plantation. Cinnamon
bark is cut, ground on a stone-mill, and packed "Fiji Fresh",
delivered by courier direct to the buyer. Here the spices never know
what a warehouse looks like.